Viking Finn Costume Bibliography

© Satu Hovi 2002 / 2017

Some books and articles about Viking Finn Costumes:

Appelgren-Kivalo, Hjalmar 1907:

Brusila, Heljä 1986:

Maarian Saramäki rautakauden kalmisto Turussa. Opinnäytetyö.

Hakanpää, Päivi 2014:

Raision Ihalan Siiri I:n ruumishauta ja sen tekstiililöydöt.

Hannusas, S. & Raitio, S. 1997:

Morsinkovärjäys – historiaa ja kokeiluja. Turun maakuntamuseon monisteita  12. Turku.

Heikel, A.O. 1889:

Tuukkalan löytö. S M YA  IX.

Hirviluoto, A-L. 1973:

Raision Ihalan "vaskivaipat". SM YA 75. p. 60-67.

Hirviluoto, A-L. 1987:

Raision emännän muinaispuku = En korstågstida kvinnodräkt från Reso. Aboa 49/1985(1987). p.8-24. A reconstruction of Raisio Viking female costume.

Hirviluoto, Anna-Liisa 1986:

Uutta tietoa rautakauden hiusmuodista. Iskos 6: 37-44. An article about a grave where a female head was found with hair on and the hairstyle reconstructed. In Finnish.

Karisto, Maikki 2010:

Lautanauhat. Suunnittelu ja kutominen. Helsinki.

Karisto, Maikki & Pasanen, Mervi 2013:

Omenaisia ja revonneniä - Suomalaisia lautanauhoja / Applesics and fox noses – Finnish Tabletwoven Bands. Salakirjat. ISBN 978-952-5774-49-8.

Kaukonen, Toini Inkeri 1960:

Kinnasompelun levinneisyys ja työtavat Suomessa; SM 1960. An Article about nålebinding methods in Finlands folk tradition. One photo from a medieval mitten reconstruction in scale 1:1. In Finnish.

Ken kantaa Kalevalaa: 1835 Kalevala 1985:

Museoviraston ja Kalevala Koru Oy:n näyttely. SKS 1985. Working instructions about a westcoast Viking Age dress from about 1100AD (Tomanterä, Leena: Pukurekonstruktio Maskun Humikkalan haudasta 32, p. 37-47). Printed, but because it is an exhibition catalog, available occasionally in used book stores. Printed in English, too. Try an international loan from the National Board of Antiquities Library in Finland. In Finnish.

Kirjavainen, Heidi 2005:

Miniä Gotlannista? Kuituanalyyttinen näkökulma eläinpääsoljen 101 tekstiileihin. Teoksessa Immonen, V. & Haimila, M. (toim.)Mustaa valkoisella. Ystäväkirja arkeologian lehtori Kristiina Korkeakoski-Väisäselle. Turku. p.247-251.

Kirjavainen, H. & Riikonen, J. 2005:

Tekstiilien valmistuksesta Turussa myöhäisrautakaudella ja keskiajalla. Muinaistutkija 3/2005. p.30-44.

Kirjavainen, Heidi & Riikonen, Jaana 2007:

Some Finnish archaeological textiles from the 11th to 15th century. –Change of fleece type and weaving tradition? Teoksessa Rast-Eicher, A. & Windler, R. (eds.) Archaeological textiles: NESAT 9: North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles. Ennenda : Archeo Tex.

Kivikoski, Ella 1947, 1952:

Suomen Rautakauden kuvasto I-II. W. Söderstrom. Two catalogs of all kinds of Viking Age finds from Finland. Full of originally pencil-drawn pictures!

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa 1984:

Ancient Finnish Costumes. Suomen arkeologinen seura/The Finnish Archaeological Society. ISBN 9519960546, 9789519960548. Book about Viking Age costumes in Finland. Female only. Basic information is correct. Read the text, do not only look at the pictures! Some of the reconstructions are not archaeologically correct.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa 1966:

Mikkelin kalmistot ja karjalainen kulttuuri. Laudaturtyö. Helsingin yliopisto. Unpublished work about the gravefinds from Mikkeli era textiles and jewellery. In Finnish. Not much pictures. Try an international loan from Arts Faculty Library of the University of Helsinki.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa 1967:

Ancient Finnish Design / Muinaista suomalaista muotoilua. Kalevala Koru. A good booklet about the Viking Finn Jewellery and the style changes through the ages.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa 1973:

Punahame – sinihuntu – monien mahdollisuuksien muinaispuvut. Vakkanen 2.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa:

Luistari. Lisensiaattityö. Unpublished work about Luistari grave finds, writes about male graves, too. Some pictures, fex. about a wallet and spiral belt reconstruction that are not in her later, published works. Try an international loan from Arts Faculty Library of the University of Helsinki. In Finnish.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa 1982, 2000:

Luistari I-IV: I-III: SMYA 82: Helsinki 1982. IV: SMYA 107. Helsinki 2000. Four thick grave catalogs from the archaeological finds from Luistari cemetery, westcoast Finland. Lots and lots of picture in number I the Graves and IV. II the Artefacts, III and IV includes more text. Buy from Tiedekirja, Helsinki. I and III are in Finnish, II and IV in English.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa 1987:

Läntisen Suomen muinaispukujen ja kansanrunojen välisistä yhteyksistä. Teokessa Linna, M. (toim.) Muinaisrunot ja todellisuus. Suomen kansan vanhojen runojen historiallinen tausta. Historian aitta XX. Lohja.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa 2000:

Kalastajista kauppanaisiin. Euran Esihistoria. Euran kunta. ISBN 951-969664-1-5. A very good book about the ancient history of the Eura county. Lots about food and male and female textiles from the Viking Age. Many pictures. In Finnish only.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa 2000:

Fishermen, Farmers, Warriors and Traders. The excavated past of Eura. Eura county, 2000 ISBN 951-96964-2-3. The Eura county museum Naurava lohikäärme sells this booklet (33 pgs), which is a summary of the book above.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa 2001:

Euran puku ja muut muinaisvaatteet. Vammala. ISBN 952-91-4118-6. About Female Viking Age dress reconstructions. In Finnish.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Sarkki & Tomanterä 1982:

Euran puku ja sen edeltäjät. Euran muinaispukutoimikunta. A black-and-white little book (48 pgs) about the development of the reconstruction of the Finn Viking Age dresses. Includes patterns to Eura dress, the original dress pieces are from about the year 1050. Buy from Eura county museum Naurava lohikäärme. In Finnish.

Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa & Tomanterä, Leena 1978:

Euran puku - uusi tulokas suomalaisten muinaispukujen sarjaan. 38 pgs.

Luoma, Helena:

Sinihameet, kultavyöt. Suomalaisia muinaispukuja. Opintotoiminnan keskusliitto ry, 2003. ISBN 952-91-6391-6. Includes an article containing information never published before about the Viking Age grave finds from Tampere area. Older Ancient Dress reconstructions included. Many pictures. In Finnish.

Margareeta, Pohjolan kuningatar:

An exhibition catalog. Printed in Swedish and English (Margareta), too. A chapter about dress in the Middle Ages, after vikings from Margareta Nockert.

Muinais-Karjalan puvun työohjeet:

Unpublished mundane working (weaving etc.) instructions of Ancient Dress of Carelia. Incl. dress patterns. In sale through Kalevala Koru. Note: the reconstruction and the instructions are not archaeologically correct in every detail. In Finnish.

Penna-Haverinen, Silja 2009:

Lankoja ja johtolankoja. Turun (Kaarinan) Kirkkomäen myöhäisrautakautiset lautanauhat. Opinnäytetyö, Turun yliopiston arkeologian laitos. Weaving of Finn Viking tablet-woven bands.

Perniön Maa- ja kotitalousnaiset 1998:

Perniön puvun työohjeet. Perniön Maa- ja kotitalousnaiset 1998 Mundane working instructions (weaving & patterns) of the female dress from westcoast Finland from about the year 1200. Note: due to the latest knowledge this reconstruction and the instructions are not archaeologically correct in every detail. In Finnish.

Pylkkänen, Riitta 1956:

Renessanssin puku Suomessa 1550-1620 / Säätyläispuku Suomessa vanhemmalla Vaasa ajalla, Helsinki 1956. A very, very, very good book about the renaissance costume in Finland in 1550-1620 and its development from the Middle Ages and even before. Very, very detailed information about embroidery and the fur value. Writes also about fake-fur coats used in rain. Based on the survived account books of Turku castle. Many black-and-white pictures. In Finnish.

Pälsi, Sakari:

Esihistoriallinen jalkine Raisiosta. Suomen museo (SM) An article about a shoe find from westcoast Finland. In Finnish.

Pälsi, Sakari 1928:

Puvustoaineksia Maskun Humikkalan kalmistosta. SM  35 (1928). p. 71-79.  An article about some male graves where lines of buttons in the right chest were found. It is construed to be a sign of wearing a coat. In Finnish.

Raitio, Sari 1991:

Kankaiden aloituksia ja lopetuksia sekä putkihulpion kutominen loimipainoisissa pystykangaspuissa. Turun maakuntamuseon monisteita 2. Turku For those who want to build warp-weighted looms and weave Finnish Viking Age style hollow selvages with it. Photos of the finished textile experiments and some other pictures. Good loom building instructions with one-page picture. The book is in sale in the store of Kurala, Kylämäki Village of Living History. In Finnish.

Riikonen, Jaana 1990:

Naisenhauta Kaarinan Kirkkomäessä. Karhunhammas 12. Turun yliopisto, kulttuurien tutkimuksen laitos, suomalainen ja vertaileva arkeologia. ISSN 0356-8601. An archaeological grave find from westcoast Finland about 1100, which includes lot of textiles. In Finnish.

Riikonen, Jaana 1996:

Esiäitiemme kuitukasvit: lähtökohtana arkeologiset löydöt. Museotiedote 17 (1996): 3-4. p.10-12.

Riikonen, Jaana 2005:

Iron Age aprons from Southwestern Finland. Teoksessa Mäntylä, S. (ed.) Rituals and Relations. Studies on the society and material culture of the Baltic Finns. Saarijärvi.

Riikonen, Jaana 2005:

Kirkkomäen gotlantilainen miniä. Teoksessa Immonen, V. & Haimila, M. (toim.) Mustaa valkoisella. Ystäväkirja arkeologian lehtori Kristiina Korkeakoski-Väisäselle. Turku. p.223-246.

Riikonen, Jaana 2011:

White Linen – Cloth of Luxury. Teoksessa Harjula, J., Helamaa, M. & Haarala, J. (eds.) Times, Things & Places: 36 Essays for Jussi-Pekka Taavitsainen. Turku. p.198- 221.

Sarkki, Seija 1979:

Suomen ristiretkiaikaiset nauhat. HYAL moniste no 22. Helsingin yliopisto. The Crusader Age bands from Finland. A very, very good (directory-type) book about tablet woven bands woven into the fabric using fabric loom as weft. Lots of pictures = band instructions. Some other bands, too. Not in sale. Try an international loan from the National Board of Antiquities Library in Finland. In Finnish.

Schvindt, Theodor 1892:

Tietoja karjalan rautakaudesta Käkislamen kihlakunnan alalta saatujen löytöjen mukaan. SMYA XIII: Suomalaisen kirjallisuuden seuran kirjapaino.

Sirelius U.T. 1916:

Suomen kansanpukujen historia, Helsinki. A history of folk costume in Finland. Very good, refers to the Middle Ages.

Tomanterä, Leena 1977:

Tampereen Vilusenharjun tekstiiliaineisto; Appendix in Nallinmaa-Luoto, Terhi 1977: Tampereen Vilusenharjun kalmisto. Karhunhammas 3. Archaeological finds from the cemetry of Vilusenharju in Tampere. No pictures. In Finnish.

Tomanterä, Leena 1978:

Euran puvun tekstiiliaineisto; Vakkanen 3. This article includes some photos from textiles from the female grave number 56 in Luistari, Eura, which are not published anywhere else. In Finnish.

Tomanterä, Leena 1978:

Kaksi Köyliön miekkahautaa : Vanhankartanon c-kalmiston haudat XVI ja XVII. Hyal moniste 16. Helsinki

Tomanterä, Leena 1982:

Tekstiililöytö – muinaispuku. Teoksessa Edgren, H. & Uino, P. (toim.) Studia minora. Hyal moniste  29. p.157-165.

Vahter, Tyyni 1928:

Pronssikierukkakoristelun teknillisestä menetelmästä; SM 35, p. 61-70. An article about how the spiral details were made and its difference depending of the area and century in Finland. Includes pictures. Very, very good, detailed information not available anywhere else. In Finnish.

Vahter, Tyyni 1934:

Tuukkalan neulakinnas, Suomen Muinaismuistoyhdistyksen aikakauskirja 40, p. 236 – 243.  An article about a nålebinded male mitten with leftover embroidery from 14th century. Some pictures (very small and bad one from the embroidery). In Finnish.

Vahter, Tyyni 1945:

Varsinais-Suomen esihistorialliset palmikkonauhat. Teoksessa Kivikoski, E. (toim.) Strena archaeologica professori A. M. Tallgren 8.2.1945 sexagenario dedicata. Helsinki. p.211-220.

Vahter, Tyyni 1952:

Varsinaissuomalainen kaarihuntu. Kivikoski, E. (toim.) Corolla archaeologica in honorem C. A. Nordman. Helsinki. p.151-158.

Vajanto, Krista 2003:

Euran emännän neulakintaat. About several nålebinded mittens in Finland in the Viking Age and in the Middle Ages. Good instructions about the methods and very good photos (also from the embroidered mitten in the article above). In Finnish. Available in the Net: http://www.vajanto.net/gradu/. In Finnish, some fotos about the fragments.

Vajanto, K. 2010:

Muinaistekstiilien värejä - jotain uutta, jotain vanhaa, jotain sinistä ja jotain käytettyä. Muinaistutkija 1/2010. p.47-57.

Valtonen, Erja (now Erja-Kaarina Helkiö):

Euran puku; työohjeet. Unpublished working instructions of the Eura dress from about 1025-1050 AD for a mundane dressmaker and weaver. Some of the detail information is missing compared to archaeological finds. Weaving instructions are for mundane looms. Sold by the author. To compare with Scandinavian and Baltic archaeological finds.

To compare with Scandinavian and Baltic archaeological finds:

The Acient Hungarians:

Hungarian National Museum. 1996. An exhibition catalog. Lots of belt decoration pieces and purses. (Printed in Finnish, too: Muinaiset unkarilaiset.)

Bau:

Birkas kvinnodräkt i nytt ljus, KUML Swedish Viking Age female dress, a good article. In Swedish.

Bunt, Cyril G.E.:

Byzantine Fabrics Examples about the patterned silk fabrics from early period.

Elsner, Hildegard 1992:

Wikinger Museum Haithabu: Schaufenster einer fruhen Stadt. Wachholtz Verlag. Good, short chapter about viking textiles. The best overview that I have found. In German.

From Viking to Crusader:

Scandinavia and Europe 800-1200. Sweden, 1992. An exhibition catalog. Includes photos of some textile pieces from large byzantium-type pants and fake-fur coats.

Geijer, Agnes:

Birka II:2 Swedish Viking Age dress. A book in German.

Gutar och vikingar:

Statens historiska museum, Gotland. A very good museum book of Viking Age Gotland. Little about food, a little about textiles, a little….note the belts, which have similarities to Finnish tablet woven spiral belts of men. Note that the cut of female dress is similar to Finns and different to Swedish one. In Swedish.

Hagen, Karen Gjol:

Solplissé - en reminisens av middelalderens draktutvikling? Varia 25. Oslo 1992. About pleating in textiles in the Middle Ages and later. Lots of pictures. A good one. In Norvegian.

Hald, Margarethe:

Ancient Danish textiles Classical Viking Age textiles in Denmark- book. Very good.

Hägg, Inga 1967-68:

Some Notes of the Origin of PeplosType Dress in Scandinavia. Tor 1967-68: 81-127. An article.

Hägg, Inga 1985:

Die Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von Haithabu. Berichte über die ausgrabungen in Haithabu, vol. 20. Neumünster. Inga Hägg is a known archaeologist, who has sometimes some wild ideas about the Viking Age textile world. A book from finds of German viking town Hedeby. In German.

Ieruselimskaja, Anna A.:

Die gräber der Moscevaja Balka. Munchen 1996. A book about archaeological graves from the lake Baikal with a lot of textiles. Lots of color pictures. Many coats from the Viking Ages which have survived. In German.

Myth and Metal:

Cësu muzeju aprieniba. 1997. Lithuanian costume reconstructions. Lots of photos. A booklet. Text both in Lithuanian and English.

Nockert, Margareta:

Högom Find and Other Migration Period Costumes in Scandinavia. A very, very good book about early achaeological textiles. One of my favorites. Lots of patterns from various pants.

Nockert, Margareta:

Bockstensmannen och hans dräkt. Borås 1997. A medieval man found from a marsh with his clothing. Lots of patterns and a good text which does compare to other sources and gives patterns to other finds. In Swedish.

Rud, Mogens:

Bayeux Tapeten och slaget vid Hastings 1066. Kobenhamn 2000. Note that the men of high rank are wearing a mantle, the ordinary men do not. Lots of books about this tapestry are being published. This one is in Swedish.

Viking och hvidekrist:

A good Scandinavian Viking Age exhibition catalogue. In Danish.

Zarina, Anna:

Neue Funde der Lettgallischen Männertracht aus dem 11. Jahrhundert. NESAT 5. An article about Lithuanian male costume. All the NESATs that are published (1-8) are good to read. They are very, very useful books containing lots of textile history articles. NESAT 5 is a book about historical costume reconstructions.